Skip to main content

Hodden Grey an' a' that

So.

Context:

While researching Viking Textiles I have uncovered mention of a fabric named Hodden, which isn't viking, but which I was lead to in my research of information regarding the Viking Wadmal (trade cloth).

I quote the Mighty Wiki:

"Hodden or wadmel is a coarse kind of cloth made of undyed wool, formerly much worn by the peasantry of Scotland. It was usually made on small hand-looms by the peasants themselves. Grey hodden was made by mixing black and white fleeces together in the proportion of one to twelve when weaving. The origin of the word is unknown.
 So, this is interesting isn't it?

It raises a lot of questions, firstly, is this cloth an inherited tradition from the Norsemen? If so, was it's status as a trading good continued, or did it become a rough word to describe home-spun rough textiles worn by the poor?

Anyway, enough of that. I ask you to look at the above picture of Ben Affleck.

Now, we can all agree that he looks proper bad-ass on the left with the whole 70's repressed-mountain-man look. But observer the rightwards pictorial representation.

My first thought upon seeing this: "love that suit"

That lovely fabric, which is dark without being uniform, which has flecks of white running through it, could easily by the cultural inheritor of Hodden. Is this a case of a common cloth being adopted by the ruling classes? Don't you think that this soft blending of shades in a cloth is attempting to copy mixed-fibre cloths that were previously considered cheap and worn by the lower orders of society?

Isn't this an interesting subject? Could it be that Hodden, previously being the uniform of the working masses of society, has evolved to the stage that, though it's cultural inheritor (the cheap working suit) is commonly worn and made of uniform and high-quality materials, the upper echelons of modern capitalist society are more likely to wear a fabric that more closely copies the qualities of irregularity found in traditional cloth. Could this be an attempt to distinguish one's status by indicating through your costume that you can afford cloth made of unusual and, by their look (subjective, i know), handmade yarns (irregularity is often mistaken for handmade, regularity often mistaken for machine made)?

Interesting thought.

Anyway, I was looking at it all, took a break and found myself on a random website about movies and stuff and saw this picture.

I would ask you to consider denim, in this context.

Consider also, the idea that I as a person on a low income in this society, have two clothing items that I am careful of, one of which I wear regularly.

1: My Kilt
2: my Levis

I would suggest, when talking about my Levis, that what was once a very rough item of working wear for miners in the west during the period of american westwards expansion (wild west, whatever) has become a standard signifier of uniform belonging to the group of working men and women in our society (i say "our society" bearing in mind that most of my visitors are from US, UK and Europe and the general english speaking world). Look at how uncomfortable some politicians look when wearing jeans in public occasions. They're putting on an act, by wearing so-called casual wear in a formal occassion (press-conference/etc)

I, on the other hand, wear my Levis to interviews. They are the best pair of trousers I have, and they look bloody good. It's actually surprisingly difficult to get proper dark indigo jeans these days, everything has the bullshit "worn" look.

I could go on, but I won't. Just think:

hodden=wadmal=denim

Standard Peasant Cloth = High Status Luxury Item

Deffo

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Screw print 1.1

First in a series of screw tests. I'm designing a 3D printed loom and am documenting the design process. I have already come up with the preliminary shape of the thing, but shall keep that under wraps until I'm ready to launch. I am currently attempting to make a 3D printed screw for operating the hinge. Currently the loom is designed with a 20mm wide screw and screw hole so I am working from this for the time being. The parameters I shall initially be varying are the thread size and the clearance (push). I have had good results printing a slot-together joint with a push of 0.125 so shall start from there. Standard dimensions will remain the same throughout all variations of 1.x, specific dimensions will be changed according to the results. Print setting will most likely stay the same, at least until I start narrowing down on Specific Parameters and feel perhaps the printing quality needs to be improved. Standard dimensions thread size 20 x 20mm Spec...

Tablet Weaving Lesson #1: Backstrap weaving a simple diamond motif

This is the first in a series of video and photo tutorials showing basic to advanced tablet-weaving concepts. These lessons shall each build on the last and hopefully take the viewer from simple diamond patterns up to more complicated double face pattern weaving with finer yarns and eventually onto the heady heights of brocading and other fancy techniques (just as soon as I learn how to do them myself). In this first lesson we'll learn the basic weaving steps involved in weaving a diamond pattern in the backstrap style. This lesson is meant for someone who has purchased a ready-made warp from me. The next lesson shall detail how to design and make this warp oneself. And we begin This is the basic pattern we are making. The woven band is tied to my waist with another strap. I am holding a small stick shuttle in my right hand which contains the weft. In front of me are the cards, each card has 4 warp threads going through it. The gap that you can see is called the ...

3D printed folding loom Version 1

Hey there! Been wanting to talk about this for aaaaaaaages. But by god does designing medium scale 3D printed objects take a long time. Anyhow, I've been designing this thing since maybe August and been printing since late October. Here's a couple of pictures of it open. I'm just freehanding that pattern. I kind of fluffed up the last two switchovers. And it was meant to be a knotwork but it clearly isn't. I really need to learn to draft things out before weaving them, I'm not good enough at sketching. Same thing on paper actually, I can draw stuff in front of me (to an extent) but I can't sketch from my head. Anyhow, here's a couple of pictures of the thing closed up. Boom! So, that's nice. I'm quite happy with the progress so far. Now, onto the issues. The big circles that form the hinge get in the way of my hands when i'm weaving and I'm always bumping my knuckles off them. Would probably work better for rigi...