And though my selvedges aren't much better, I haven't had to retie a single selvedge thread in 2 full days of weaving that included much cursing as the shuttle kept attempting to break orbit. This I think is being caused by the fact that the upper shed is pulling the lower up just a wee bit on the right hand side. It wasn't an issue with the last pegging plan I was using, but it is now. I'd spend more time adjusting the levels but it's impossible to get anything just so as the shafts are held up by ancient cotton string that's all ragged and every shaft is different. I'm considering requesting that the uni invest in Texsolv to tie up the shafts on the George wood looms. What do y'all think?
This is the first in a series of video and photo tutorials showing basic to advanced tablet-weaving concepts. These lessons shall each build on the last and hopefully take the viewer from simple diamond patterns up to more complicated double face pattern weaving with finer yarns and eventually onto the heady heights of brocading and other fancy techniques (just as soon as I learn how to do them myself). In this first lesson we'll learn the basic weaving steps involved in weaving a diamond pattern in the backstrap style. This lesson is meant for someone who has purchased a ready-made warp from me. The next lesson shall detail how to design and make this warp oneself. And we begin This is the basic pattern we are making. The woven band is tied to my waist with another strap. I am holding a small stick shuttle in my right hand which contains the weft. In front of me are the cards, each card has 4 warp threads going through it. The gap that you can see is called the
Comments
Do you have any 'using a temple' tips?
-the redhead-
Once this warp is finished I'll need to spend a bit of time seriously sorting things out, which I should have done before I started this warp. In particular giving the entire loom a proper clean. I cleaned the beater bar the other day as it was black in places. I hadn't really considered it before, but when I thought about it I started to feel sick so I went and got a sponge and a bucket of soapy water and cleaned it down properly so you can actually see the original colouring of the wood now. It looks much nicer, and it isn't sticky, so that's nice.
Redhead: This is the first time I've used a temple so I don't have any really solid suggestions. I'd suggest that only moving the fell-line forward a little at a time can help with selvedges. I've found that having the fell too far from the beater causes the selvedges to become incoherent and that they tend to improve as the fell approaches the beater. I'd say an inch or two is the optimum distance. On some looms it's possible to weave as far as 4 inches away from the beater, but I don't think it's recommended unless you're carefully laying each weft pick in by hand.
As far as the use of a temple goes I'd suggest similar rules probably apply. Probably keeping it not too close to the fell, but not too far away either. I read somewhere that two or three inches is the optimum.
So perhaps moving the warp forward every couple of inches and the temple at the same time migght be the thing to do. It's more getting up and down if you're on a larger loom, but it may be worth it. I'm sure there was a discussion on weavolution somewhere to do with temple weaving, I'll look it up for you and drop the link on your page when I get a chance after dinner
-the redhead-
-the redhead-