Skip to main content

Process #3 - listen and learn

I've been obsessively weaving these big massive samples when I don't need to do so. It's been pointed out to me by my tutor (for the second or third time, but I'm too stubborn to listen to anything the first time because I always think I'm the first person that was ever correct) that I should be concentrating more on variety in colour and weaving more smaller samples on one warp than what I am doing now. Basically I'm making work for myself and it isn't necessarily going to be that helpful at the end of the day.
This is probably the most important part of the design process, taking feedback and allowing others to challenge your preconceived notions. It's probably the only way anyone ever moves forward artistically or philosophically.
If we don't allow ourselves to be changed by others then we stagnate and drop out of creative life or else become an obstacle in the way of those who wish to change things for the better.
So I've changed my approach to this project as of today. I think my work will be better for it.

Comments

Anonymous said…
Gold star for self-awareness AND willingness to reconsider! It's a hard thing to know when you need to change and when you need to stick to your guns. I guess everyone has their own tendency towards accommodation or stubbornness - like you I tend to be on the stubborn side - and I'm certain it's more than a life's work to get the perfect balance. Or maybe I'm wrong about that...
Susan said…
When in doubt, your tutor is always right. :)

I'm of the opinion that samples woven up small only give you an idea if the project is workable. The small sample will work up differently to the full sized project. So I allow at least a minimum of 12" to 15" to every full width warp to play with sett, and treadling variations and to produce a record of the project for my files. If I'm uncertain of the right sett, I sley for the mid range, weave and cut off... wet finish and make a decision. Then I can move up or down from there. The beat across the full project is the same weight.

So, yes, I'm a member of the full size sample club!

Allowing others to critique your work is important otherwise all your work will look the same after some years of doing the same thing! The challenge is to keep it fresh and that means moving out of your comfort zone.
Now, that's the truly hard part!

Susan
Susan said…
PS I added your blog to my blog list at Thrums so you might see an increase in visits. Its up to you now to write something interesting to keep them coming back!

:) Susan
Andrew Kieran said…
Hi Susan, thanks for the input :)

I like to make a larger sample as well to get a good idea of handle, the small swatches have been suggested as simple colour swatches, with a larger piece indicating drape and so on.

This project is however primarily concerned with colour, so that's what's most important here. Also, my final fabric is hopefully going to be woven in silk (probably after a resleying or two, as you say) if I can get hold of enough in the right colours or enough white to make use of the university dyelabs (they can either dye enough for a little yarn sample - less than 25g or enough for a reasonable sized warp - more than 400g so I'd need a pretty fair whack of the stuff to get exactly the colours I want).

At the moment I am using 2/20's cc Viscose Rayon, which is the closest match in terms of colours and reflective value I can find in our (very considerable) yarn store. I even managed to convince the dyelab to make me a new stock yarn in sunshine yellow, as it was a gap that was missing in the yellows, so I'm quite chuffed about that. Shows the benefit of being slightly pushy and just asking for everything you want.

And thanks for the link Susan, it's greatly appreciated, I've been following your blog for a wee while now but I don't often stick my head over the parapet to comment on blogs, unless I'm on one of my occassional correspondence splurges. Which I am now.

Cheers

Popular posts from this blog

Tablet Weaving Lesson #1: Backstrap weaving a simple diamond motif

This is the first in a series of video and photo tutorials showing basic to advanced tablet-weaving concepts. These lessons shall each build on the last and hopefully take the viewer from simple diamond patterns up to more complicated double face pattern weaving with finer yarns and eventually onto the heady heights of brocading and other fancy techniques (just as soon as I learn how to do them myself). In this first lesson we'll learn the basic weaving steps involved in weaving a diamond pattern in the backstrap style. This lesson is meant for someone who has purchased a ready-made warp from me. The next lesson shall detail how to design and make this warp oneself. And we begin This is the basic pattern we are making. The woven band is tied to my waist with another strap. I am holding a small stick shuttle in my right hand which contains the weft. In front of me are the cards, each card has 4 warp threads going through it. The gap that you can see is called the

treble-cloth construction

I am currently in the process of designing a triple layered fabric. One layer shall carry conductive warp threads (one out of every three), another layer shall carry conductive weft threads (again, one out of every three) and a third layer shall lay between them and act as an insulator, keeping them apart and preventing unwanted contact between the two conductive layers. Constructing a treble cloth is a compicated process. The way that a treble cloth is woven is that first the face cloth is woven, then the centre cloth is woven, then the back cloth is woven. This is a draft for a treble cloth. The crosses indicate weaving marks for the cloth currently being woven, the dashes are lifts and are used to indicate shafts that are being lifted in the case of layers that are above the layer currently being woven. Blue is back, Red is front, Green is centre (All three layers are plain weave btw) The cloth is constructed like so 1: Back cloth is woven. All red and green marks are lif

Building a jack loom Part 1: Vague plans and messy diagrams

I've been thinking about it for a while to be fair. What I'm thinking about is an 8 shaft folding jack loom. The interesting part comes when I point out that I'm going to build an electric dobby controller into the bottom of it so it operates from one pedal and a computer program. So far I've been thinking and thinking and I'm basically roughly copying the kind of frame you'd find in a Siever's school or Baby wolf loom. Basically it's like an X that folds up on itself with the castle in the middle. Should be able to reduce it's depth from 3 feet to about 1 for storage. I don't think it's really that difficult to design the loom frame, aside from building the beams and making the ratchets and so on, which I may just jigsaw out of thick MDF. I have most of the wood I need asides from some panelling and I need to buy some aluminium sheet to make the shaft dividers with and also to hold the shaft bodies together with. The rising levers w