Skip to main content

some samples finished off, and a curious case of variable shrinkage

so I made a warp up of 1/15 worsted. And I did it in plain weave and 4-shaft honeycomb in both 24 and 32epi. The plain weave was better in 24 (more balanced and less sticking, which reminds me I really should learn to make and apply warp sizing to stop that from happening, it makes weaving plain weave in wool a real pain in the backside) but the honeycomb was better in 32, cos it's more weft-faced, innit


anyway, here's a pic of the 2. Both quite nice, I'll have to give it a go in the cashmere next week sometime, see how that goes.

And this ugly duckling on the right is the cashmere, after going through the wash (big mistake). See, I've been hoping to be able to weave multiple scarves in a single width, but due to a lack of proper finishing equipment, this is proving somewhat unlikely. Also, for some reason, the blue weft yarn in this scarf is shrinking and felting more (much more) than the white. Which doesn't make a lot of sense because they're from the same mill and brand. I can only assume that the blue yarn is subjected to a greater degree of wet finishing than the white, but it doesn't seem right to me. I'll have to go back and check the labels. I guess it could be that at some point someone's wound a yarn onto a cone that isn't what it says it is. Now, I can tell that it's cashmere, and it appears identical in count and quality to the white stuff, but that's no saying anything.

You can't tell yourself from the photo, but in the bordering regions between the body of the scarf and the false selvedge, the weft yarns have felted up. Now, you can still extract some of the white yarns, but the blue yarns are felted completely. Also, the blue weft sections are a great deal (well, a little bit) thicker than the white sections, and more inflexible.

It's a curious thing. I have a great deal to learn about cloth finishing evidently before I can hope to weave multiple scarves in a width and finish them properly without resorting to using overlocking or rolled hems or any of that unpleasantness which seriously detracts from the drape and softness of the item, in my opinion.

One of these days I guess I'll have to build a fulling machine, when I also own the old millhouse and pigs fly to spain on a daily basis

-Andrew

Comments

I have lots of old woollen yarn (from Galashiels, no less!) that behaves like that: darker shades shrink more than lighter, and quite a bit, too.
Of course I don't *know* why, but my guess is that the lighter shades are made from bleached wool, and that bleached wool will shrink less, later.
Isn't it fun, all unpredictabilities...?
Now I have posted a picture on my blog with one of my experiences...
Holly said…
Sometimes wool companies will use a lightening agent (bleach maybe) on the yarn before the dye it with the lighter colors. If they use a lightening agent, then the yarn doesn't felt well and sometimes not at all. The white yarn you used could have been lightened and that is why it and the blue yarns shrank at different rates.
Andrew Kieran said…
hi holly, that's what I was thinking, I looked up my notes and they informed me that they do bleach yarns prior to dyeing if it's to be white or a pale colour. Which would explain things.

This could be gotten around by bleaching all yarn prior to dying, but then that'd end up using up more water and causing more pollution, and the last thing the textile industry needs is to use more water and produce more pollution

Popular posts from this blog

Screw print 1.1

First in a series of screw tests. I'm designing a 3D printed loom and am documenting the design process. I have already come up with the preliminary shape of the thing, but shall keep that under wraps until I'm ready to launch. I am currently attempting to make a 3D printed screw for operating the hinge. Currently the loom is designed with a 20mm wide screw and screw hole so I am working from this for the time being. The parameters I shall initially be varying are the thread size and the clearance (push). I have had good results printing a slot-together joint with a push of 0.125 so shall start from there. Standard dimensions will remain the same throughout all variations of 1.x, specific dimensions will be changed according to the results. Print setting will most likely stay the same, at least until I start narrowing down on Specific Parameters and feel perhaps the printing quality needs to be improved. Standard dimensions thread size 20 x 20mm Spec...

Tablet Weaving Lesson #1: Backstrap weaving a simple diamond motif

This is the first in a series of video and photo tutorials showing basic to advanced tablet-weaving concepts. These lessons shall each build on the last and hopefully take the viewer from simple diamond patterns up to more complicated double face pattern weaving with finer yarns and eventually onto the heady heights of brocading and other fancy techniques (just as soon as I learn how to do them myself). In this first lesson we'll learn the basic weaving steps involved in weaving a diamond pattern in the backstrap style. This lesson is meant for someone who has purchased a ready-made warp from me. The next lesson shall detail how to design and make this warp oneself. And we begin This is the basic pattern we are making. The woven band is tied to my waist with another strap. I am holding a small stick shuttle in my right hand which contains the weft. In front of me are the cards, each card has 4 warp threads going through it. The gap that you can see is called the ...

3D printed folding loom Version 1

Hey there! Been wanting to talk about this for aaaaaaaages. But by god does designing medium scale 3D printed objects take a long time. Anyhow, I've been designing this thing since maybe August and been printing since late October. Here's a couple of pictures of it open. I'm just freehanding that pattern. I kind of fluffed up the last two switchovers. And it was meant to be a knotwork but it clearly isn't. I really need to learn to draft things out before weaving them, I'm not good enough at sketching. Same thing on paper actually, I can draw stuff in front of me (to an extent) but I can't sketch from my head. Anyhow, here's a couple of pictures of the thing closed up. Boom! So, that's nice. I'm quite happy with the progress so far. Now, onto the issues. The big circles that form the hinge get in the way of my hands when i'm weaving and I'm always bumping my knuckles off them. Would probably work better for rigi...