Skip to main content

New Loom > Old loom

This is my old tablet weaving loom. I guess calling it a loom is a bit of a stretch as it's basically a plank with a couple of bits of wood nailed to it to mount another bit of wood as a rudimentary cloth beam.


Anyhow, it served it's purpose fine and all, but I only used it the once to make some particularly intricate bands from silk. It's a bit on the bulky side, and I need more bulky crap like I need a hole in the head.

So I made a new one. I wanted to make a tablet weaving loom that was no bigger than it needed to be, that allowed one to weave a long warp, that had a spacer (helps both with combating twist and with keeping a consistent cloth width) and that most importantly could be made in pieces, shipped across the world in an A4 packet and put together without any nuts, bolts or glue.

This loom also combines the technique I've found most helpful in tablet weaving (the spreading board) with the basic technology of a handloom. One of the benefits that occured to me earlier the day of this is that if someone were to learn tablet weaving on this, without realising it they'd also be learning some of the fundamental basics of handloom weaving, making and beaming the warp, with the spreading board playing the part of a raddle.

In fact, there's really not good reason why this thing couldn't be turned into a shaft loom now I think of it. It just needs an add-on for that. Or for inkle weaving, or rigid heddle weaving, even jacquard weaving (now that would be an EXPENSIVE upgrade ;-).

But hey, the intricate patterns you can make with this setup are practically infinite anyway, so you don't really need to bother with anything else.


So this is the loom. It's made entirely out of 6mm laser-cut plyboard. It all just slots together. I've had this idea in my head for quite a while, now I've finally managed to extract it thanks to the tools at Dundee Makerspace, specifically the lasercutter. This is a bit of a rough draft like, There's a few things I'd change.

Firstly, I didn't really think through the ratchet and pawl thing properly. By the time I'd drafted all the parts it occured to me I hadn't considered where to mount or how to attach the pawl. I suspect I'll have to cut a hole for it into the main board and attach it with a narrow nail or something like that.

Also, I allowed the ratchet teeth to come to a sharp point, which means that some of the teeth have been cracking at the end as I'm using nails as pawls right now. 

The beams turn pretty well, considering they're not actually round. 

I really should have put a raised lip at the edges of the warp beam on the inside of the mount in order to bracket in the warp. If a person had a very long warp that would be an issue.

The spacer at the back is going to need something on the top to prevent the prongs from breaking. It only has 12 spacers just now, but if it had more it would get exceedingly fragile. It's also the part that takes longest to cut so it's an issue. It may make more sense to cut it from acrylic instead. It may actually make sense to cut the entire thing from acrylic, I just have to make sure I can get an appropriately tight fit.

If i did make it from acrylic it could be all sorts of funky colours.

The bit at the front is completely over-engineered and I don't think needs those wee slots at all.

The middle joining bits need to be longer and lower. The board bends slightly under tension and when you've advanced about a third of the way up the board, the joiners get in the way of your hands somewhat.

It would be helpful to be able to get the cards actually resting on the board if one wanted in order that 2-hole patterns could be made. I know you could just stick a wee book there, but that's not the point.

Also, what it really needs is a way of making the warp on the loom. I jury-rigged a rough solution but it's not acceptable in the long run. I think a couple of arms with warping posts sticking out that slot onto the sides would be nice. They could be stabilized above and below in order that they don't bend out of shape.

-----------------------------------------------------------

I kind of want to manufacture and sell these. Do you think I should do kickstarter or something?

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Tablet Weaving Lesson #1: Backstrap weaving a simple diamond motif

This is the first in a series of video and photo tutorials showing basic to advanced tablet-weaving concepts. These lessons shall each build on the last and hopefully take the viewer from simple diamond patterns up to more complicated double face pattern weaving with finer yarns and eventually onto the heady heights of brocading and other fancy techniques (just as soon as I learn how to do them myself). In this first lesson we'll learn the basic weaving steps involved in weaving a diamond pattern in the backstrap style. This lesson is meant for someone who has purchased a ready-made warp from me. The next lesson shall detail how to design and make this warp oneself. And we begin This is the basic pattern we are making. The woven band is tied to my waist with another strap. I am holding a small stick shuttle in my right hand which contains the weft. In front of me are the cards, each card has 4 warp threads going through it. The gap that you can see is called the ...

treble-cloth construction

I am currently in the process of designing a triple layered fabric. One layer shall carry conductive warp threads (one out of every three), another layer shall carry conductive weft threads (again, one out of every three) and a third layer shall lay between them and act as an insulator, keeping them apart and preventing unwanted contact between the two conductive layers. Constructing a treble cloth is a compicated process. The way that a treble cloth is woven is that first the face cloth is woven, then the centre cloth is woven, then the back cloth is woven. This is a draft for a treble cloth. The crosses indicate weaving marks for the cloth currently being woven, the dashes are lifts and are used to indicate shafts that are being lifted in the case of layers that are above the layer currently being woven. Blue is back, Red is front, Green is centre (All three layers are plain weave btw) The cloth is constructed like so 1: Back cloth is woven. All red and green marks are lif...

Building a jack loom Part 1: Vague plans and messy diagrams

I've been thinking about it for a while to be fair. What I'm thinking about is an 8 shaft folding jack loom. The interesting part comes when I point out that I'm going to build an electric dobby controller into the bottom of it so it operates from one pedal and a computer program. So far I've been thinking and thinking and I'm basically roughly copying the kind of frame you'd find in a Siever's school or Baby wolf loom. Basically it's like an X that folds up on itself with the castle in the middle. Should be able to reduce it's depth from 3 feet to about 1 for storage. I don't think it's really that difficult to design the loom frame, aside from building the beams and making the ratchets and so on, which I may just jigsaw out of thick MDF. I have most of the wood I need asides from some panelling and I need to buy some aluminium sheet to make the shaft dividers with and also to hold the shaft bodies together with. The rising levers w...