tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39786329259509371402024-03-19T03:34:16.592+00:00weave4funBecause I can, so I do. Wouldn't You?Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.comBlogger175125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-43668673720713763532017-01-11T21:40:00.001+00:002017-01-11T21:40:35.259+00:003D printed folding loom Version 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Hey there!<br />
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Been wanting to talk about this for aaaaaaaages. But by god does designing medium scale 3D printed objects take a long time. Anyhow, I've been designing this thing since maybe August and been printing since late October.<br />
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Here's a couple of pictures of it open.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio8o4hMy6lsOP2JE8VndXd4CqzQmKPnqadlYFn8DNGxTZf1RtnEwCwNlCfRKROcLJLNViK9fltb_F0gfXXAjxoJItWHAKCNLuRMQds2-5OvHUVshFdnnsHQSmAB3AuCUyW8bO5iKpjCwIB/s1600/DSC_0078.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio8o4hMy6lsOP2JE8VndXd4CqzQmKPnqadlYFn8DNGxTZf1RtnEwCwNlCfRKROcLJLNViK9fltb_F0gfXXAjxoJItWHAKCNLuRMQds2-5OvHUVshFdnnsHQSmAB3AuCUyW8bO5iKpjCwIB/s320/DSC_0078.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxBh-DXXkygvNgfNK4r2HbMkViiQ3qx0DWHdP5lw0eYbj3Mfi5rAGERyPTXTNBhwoFwkg9QXjogqXaUCYshOxfzEFgd3ARgu5ZvHgpKc7PkGSM-g-1adh-Dxw8rMFZtPtIGPbUrdaFZNIi/s1600/FB_IMG_14841678746018310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxBh-DXXkygvNgfNK4r2HbMkViiQ3qx0DWHdP5lw0eYbj3Mfi5rAGERyPTXTNBhwoFwkg9QXjogqXaUCYshOxfzEFgd3ARgu5ZvHgpKc7PkGSM-g-1adh-Dxw8rMFZtPtIGPbUrdaFZNIi/s320/FB_IMG_14841678746018310.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I'm just freehanding that pattern. I kind of fluffed up the last two switchovers. And it was meant to be a knotwork but it clearly isn't. I really need to learn to draft things out before weaving them, I'm not good enough at sketching. Same thing on paper actually, I can draw stuff in front of me (to an extent) but I can't sketch from my head.</div>
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Anyhow, here's a couple of pictures of the thing closed up. Boom!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHuR0NPe4TtXUvg0ns_XSvopZE7k11Jiag0RFwrM3OyiQ4jZh8PD7O30RRNyqc9Mc1A94JBJ1KZ90HLkQA7EuvOFXLnPvGDumnwTz52hsBFibb9fSif2WFcFjejjwdbs32ZBDuATALGU54/s1600/DSC_0079.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHuR0NPe4TtXUvg0ns_XSvopZE7k11Jiag0RFwrM3OyiQ4jZh8PD7O30RRNyqc9Mc1A94JBJ1KZ90HLkQA7EuvOFXLnPvGDumnwTz52hsBFibb9fSif2WFcFjejjwdbs32ZBDuATALGU54/s320/DSC_0079.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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So, that's nice. I'm quite happy with the progress so far. Now, onto the issues.</div>
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The big circles that form the hinge get in the way of my hands when i'm weaving and I'm always bumping my knuckles off them. Would probably work better for rigid heddle weaving than tablet weaving, which it is theoretically capable of, but I don't have the technology to make an adequate rigid heddle at this time. Need to speak to a man about a dog when it comes to that one. </div>
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The advantage of the big circular hinge is that it's strong as heck and also that it means the whole thing folds in one motion into a nice clean shape. I'm working away in my head for the time being on finding a way of getting the functionality and strength of the big central hinge without the kuckle-skinning downsides. </div>
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The other big issue (that I predicted this time, I was hoping i wouldn't have the knuckle issues) is that one or both beams need to be partially unwound for the folding motion to occur, as the back beam (which the warp floats over at the back of the loom) must fold into the inside of the front beam (that the cloth floats over at the front.), this is quite far from ideal and will require more uncomfortable brain-thinking work over the course of the coming months. </div>
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And the final big issue is the size of the beams in terms of their capacity for the storage of both warm and cloth. They're just too wee for my liking. I can just about get three meters maybe onto the warp beam but I'll not get that much onto the cloth beam. Also narrower beams are more difficult to beam well. I am using a bracket and raddle system in order to make warping as simple as possible but it still require improvements. I need to find a way of making more space for beams of larger circumference. And also find a better way of attaching the warp to the beam. Because at the moment I have to tie them on with a stick in the traditional manner and that really isn't an elegant solution of a loom of this size. In fact it's downright cumbersome and further cuts down on the warp storage capacity. </div>
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I shall have to take a few leafs out of the book of Industrial Design when it comes to designing my warp beams. Make them 4 metres long, 2 feet wide and milled out of solid Aluminium. Only joking. I'll make them out of plastic, but I'm totally stealing some ideas from industrial looms. Those looms know what they're doing.</div>
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Oh, and the whole thing fits in my satchel btw. Which I accidentally left at work, so I can't show you that.</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-52498431722139271212016-12-03T20:06:00.002+00:002016-12-03T20:06:35.353+00:00Screw print 1.1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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First in a series of screw tests. I'm designing a 3D printed loom and am documenting the design process. I have already come up with the preliminary shape of the thing, but shall keep that under wraps until I'm ready to launch.</div>
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I am currently attempting to make a 3D printed screw for operating the hinge. Currently the loom is designed with a 20mm wide screw and screw hole so I am working from this for the time being.</div>
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The parameters I shall initially be varying are the thread size and the clearance (push). I have had good results printing a slot-together joint with a push of 0.125 so shall start from there.</div>
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Standard dimensions will remain the same throughout all variations of 1.x, specific dimensions will be changed according to the results. Print setting will most likely stay the same, at least until I start narrowing down on Specific Parameters and feel perhaps the printing quality needs to be improved.</div>
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<u>Standard dimensions</u><div>
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thread size 20 x 20mm</div>
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<u>Specific dimensions</u></div>
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Thread: 30</div>
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Push: 0.125</div>
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<u>Print Settings</u></div>
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Layer height: 0.1mm</div>
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Shell Thickness: 0.4mm</div>
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Print Speed: 50mm/s</div>
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<u>The Result</u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTg-tnTPWG5GtQKfNl-cnJLSnTzAS_IH1qVKTu6n5Gy4J7nM5fqHqYF9IE-L2aCc7FcoOvHShB8VsF-a9XM4IzZeo6K0jpzk-igQSi6VKx1FiV2wq1zqViEMXq80GOgr8aul36ZpVz9vOT/s1600/DSC_0043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTg-tnTPWG5GtQKfNl-cnJLSnTzAS_IH1qVKTu6n5Gy4J7nM5fqHqYF9IE-L2aCc7FcoOvHShB8VsF-a9XM4IzZeo6K0jpzk-igQSi6VKx1FiV2wq1zqViEMXq80GOgr8aul36ZpVz9vOT/s320/DSC_0043.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Have to turn it on and back a few times to get it to work, but after that it turns freely. I noticed some little ickle-wickle blobs on the inside of the bolt thread, which will maybe mean I need to do something to my printer settings, but I'm not sure what exactly yet. Nevertheless, I'm chuffed with the results of this test and will maybe try making a hinge next.</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-11374377853193843922016-01-20T15:26:00.001+00:002016-01-20T15:26:01.374+00:00Warping up with household furniture and some other things <div xmlns='http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml'>Hi there all. <br/>
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Bit of a picture heavy post the now. I've joined a group on Facebook called Weaving Hacks, which is a very nice group which does exactly what it says on the tin. <br/>
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Anyhoo, I said I'd share some of the unconventional ways I make warps, so I'm going to do the indoor one the now as it's very cold outdoors so there's no way I'm going to do a "making a warp on fence posts / sticks in the ground / hammers tied to trees / sticks wedged into a dyke post while it's this cold. <br/>
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Hate the cold me, totally hate it. <br/>
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So, that's the craic for this post. <br/>
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I'm going to start off with making paper bobbins so I can break down a large cone into separate packages. <br/>
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<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fdSqIFnZdIc/Vp-lz-dRZUI/AAAAAAAADjc/UH0vCcOPgL8/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fdSqIFnZdIc/Vp-lz-dRZUI/AAAAAAAADjc/UH0vCcOPgL8/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j0dzK1ZuCWU/Vp-l5kXmq0I/AAAAAAAADjk/U8pyAVBo-PI/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j0dzK1ZuCWU/Vp-l5kXmq0I/AAAAAAAADjk/U8pyAVBo-PI/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cCCGlDTa7Xk/Vp-mClF45TI/AAAAAAAADjs/6wm3nrjIJAs/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cCCGlDTa7Xk/Vp-mClF45TI/AAAAAAAADjs/6wm3nrjIJAs/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JMCyrZzeip8/Vp-mIxRVSwI/AAAAAAAADj0/UNl-t7UOyIE/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JMCyrZzeip8/Vp-mIxRVSwI/AAAAAAAADj0/UNl-t7UOyIE/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DJ16tKtLxCg/Vp-mOil0rKI/AAAAAAAADj8/v9HQG0Q9JrI/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DJ16tKtLxCg/Vp-mOil0rKI/AAAAAAAADj8/v9HQG0Q9JrI/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
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Simple enough. Wrap a piece of paper Round a pencil, tape it and Bob's your auntie. <br/>
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Then stick a pencil in a drill, put the bobbin on and wind your yarn on. Takes ages, I really miss having access to a bobbin winder. I took a couple of pictures of this but not gonna bother adding them because it's pretty straightforward. <br/>
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Then knitting pins in a box plus bobbins equals a convenient way to keep your yarns in order while warping. <br/>
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<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ovIRTpu1_JY/Vp-mVG5YChI/AAAAAAAADkE/Xn00EqXDwKM/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ovIRTpu1_JY/Vp-mVG5YChI/AAAAAAAADkE/Xn00EqXDwKM/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
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OK, not the best picture I could have taken, but this isn't the main thrust of the post and if I'm going to do a warping post I might as well do it properly and dedicate an entire post and a couple of videos. This is more for people who can weave but are just looking for some handy tricks. <br/>
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So, onto the handy trick. I almost never use warping frames when making tablet warps, because I learned without them and am quite happy continuing that way. Warping for a loom is a different story, I'd feel very uneasy about making a nice wide loom warp without proper equipment, but maybe that's just my privileged education showing. Anyway, never mind that. Here's three pics of the warp in progress. <br/>
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First, one end. <br/>
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<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L-HBaFCkdJM/Vp-mbteO6oI/AAAAAAAADkM/i4n0N9kJdMY/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L-HBaFCkdJM/Vp-mbteO6oI/AAAAAAAADkM/i4n0N9kJdMY/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
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Then the other. <br/>
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<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Iy1ZJ6gEZ8/Vp-mki4KwSI/AAAAAAAADkU/-aOsIWM7E3o/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5Iy1ZJ6gEZ8/Vp-mki4KwSI/AAAAAAAADkU/-aOsIWM7E3o/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
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Finally, the whole thing, for context. <br/>
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<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ca55ynNdQNk/Vp-mtARvU6I/AAAAAAAADkc/JMfB1XZybaA/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ca55ynNdQNk/Vp-mtARvU6I/AAAAAAAADkc/JMfB1XZybaA/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
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That's my parents' kitchen. Of course I made sure I had the place to myself for a couple hours first. That got me about 6 metres of warp which became about 5 metres of this. <br/>
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<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wWkJAZzrN_M/Vp-m0fN46UI/AAAAAAAADkk/jMc22GuWG-0/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wWkJAZzrN_M/Vp-m0fN46UI/AAAAAAAADkk/jMc22GuWG-0/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
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Here's a full view of the loom. <br/>
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<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w9oDv4PINKM/Vp-m7OLKCsI/AAAAAAAADks/KVo9z_ZfYMw/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-w9oDv4PINKM/Vp-m7OLKCsI/AAAAAAAADks/KVo9z_ZfYMw/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a><br/>
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So, that's that really. Now I'm going to talk about the loom a little because it's my baby and I like talking about it. <br/>
6 metres was really a stretch to warp on this loom. I don't believe in using warp sticks and prefer to narrow my warp as it winds on in order to avoid slop, especially as if I used warp sticks I'd be lucky to get a metre on here. <br/>
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So, it went OK, not brilliantly and I had to bodge the edges inwards as I was winding, but I improved the process in the warp after this and was happier with it, though it's still not ideal. I still got tight edges from halfway through till the end but it remained weave able throughout and the finished band wasn't noticeably deformed apart from having decreased in density in the middle comparative to the edges, though I'm unsure whether that was a problem with the warping or my weft tucking, as I've always had problems with widening bands and am only now getting serious about addressing it. <br/>
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Anyway, it worked but wasn't ideal do that part of the design and process must change. Watch this space, and indeed any other space in which I hang out. <br/>
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Also, the cloth collection is not ideal and makes me wonder whether I even want a cloth beam at all. For TW it's not exactly necessary, but given i want thus loom to be capable of ingle and pickup weaving also for weaving slightly wider cloth I think I should keep it for now and attempt to improve it in a similar manner to the warp beam. <br/>
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Anyhow, that's that. In other news I'm leaving for hopefully a new and interesting life in Greece in a couple of weeks where I can continue my weaving and loom development, now here's a picture of my dog Eris with her friend Blot. Eris is the little one. <br/>
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<a href='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YIA9x6JUgps/Vp-nB48tmCI/AAAAAAAADk0/t9FMk8vgmDw/s2560/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' onblur='try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}'><img border='0' src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YIA9x6JUgps/Vp-nB48tmCI/AAAAAAAADk0/t9FMk8vgmDw/s640/%25255BUNSET%25255D.jpg' style='display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;'/></a></div>Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-3757276679997406032015-12-15T01:20:00.001+00:002015-12-15T01:20:05.057+00:00Potlatch<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Starting note. If you're a Greek weaver or a Greek speaking weaver and get bored with this rambling, please scroll to the bottom, I need your help with language.<br />
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So, things didn't quite work out as planned in Dundee, for very personal reasons. As these things tend to do. I'm sure many of you have been in a similar position before. Something very central to your life changes and the life you have just doesn't make sense anymore.<br />
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So, the upshot is, I couldn't afford to keep the flat anymore. The rent is more than I can afford, even when working at full capacity. I've been working as a delivery driver for Domino's Pizza and while it's a great deal of fun, very satisfying and my workmates were really good fun to get on with and the management was the best I've ever worked under, no matter how many hours I worked there'd be no way to make anything more than a subsistence level income with the rent.<br />
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I'd thought of several option, I though of getting a smaller flat, I thought of getting a flatmate, but none of it made sense.<br />
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Then I was lying awake in bed one night looking at the half-empty shelving unit next to me when I just thought "I should go to Athens and be with my brother".<br />
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I couldn't sleep anyway, so I just stayed up until he woke up and had a long conversation on Skype about everything that had happened. That was a couple of months ago. Since then I've been working and basically organising what you could call a tactical retreat from my life in Scotland. The difference between a tactical retreat and a rout is that rather than picking up a sleeping bag and walking out of the door with my dog leaving chaos in my wake I'm doing everything I can to make sure that I leave things in order, complete the tasks that are necessary and make arrangements for the paying down of the debts I have accumulated.<br />
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It's been a long couple of months.<br />
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Now I'm at the point where I've sold the bulk of the furniture and now have no sofas or beds and am writing this post in front of a telly perched on a computer tower while sitting on an upturned bin. I can't find the power cable for my laptop, that's why. Annoying eh.<br />
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My bed is a single duvet on top of a folded over double duvet in the corner by the heater. And it is very cold. But I'm accustomed to this kind of life. I used to be a squatter and at least here I have security.<br />
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But the more things I shed myself of the more at peace I am.<br />
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This may alarm some of you, but I have thrown out all the cloth I wove before I went to college. Every single piece. I have gotten rid of duvets, bedsheets, towels, perfectly good clothes. I have whittled my tool collection down to the bare minimum, all else going to the Dundee Makerspace. What do I need with a full set of turning chisels? With a set of tiny screwdrivers? With three different handsaws? With all the wall-plugs, with all the yarn I have accumulated.<br />
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I have thrown away that which will be of no use and gifted everything else except my bare necessities. The weaving cards I have made take no space and I use them all the time, I keep them. The Marudai braiding stand is a sacred item for reasons I won't go into, I keep that. The latest iteration of the weaving board I have designed comes apart and goes in an A4 envelope and is the foundation of a potential living, I keep that.<br />
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The little loom I learned to weave on? It's long gone, gone to another beginner weaver. The big loom I learned sectional beaming on and wove my first set of scarves (one of which I'm still wearing right now)? It's gone to the makerspace and I'm producing a video to explain to others how to get the counterbalance system properly balanced. It will be used there. Tools should be used. My sewing machine, overlocker, design table? Makerspace. The yarn, hundreds of pounds worth, Makerspace. I am only taking 5 kilos of 2/60's silk supplied by a company that I intend to use again (they have a very good pallette of pre-dyed shades). And some very fine nylon, which is excellent for practicing weaving new fonts with.<br />
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The computer is a fine tool, which I have used for designing my tablet weaving loom and a wonderful diversion if I want to spag out (a term my family use for being a couch potato, I've never heard anyone outside my family use this term) and play video games. This will stay with my sister until my living situation is secure and I can send for it.<br />
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My Ebook stays with me, I am currently reading the Meditations by Marcus Aurelius. I've read it before, but it's worth reminding oneself of the lessons of a man who made Stoicism accessible to the people. A philosopher emperor. Great guy. On you go Marky-boy.<br />
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Anyhow. You get the craic of the matter.<br />
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So that's that, away I go, after an interlude of earning money from home and earning my keep by chopping wood and walking dogs.<br />
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So, this is the request for the Greeks that I mentioned at the beginning of the post for those of you who weren't up to reading me rambling at length about my problems, solutions and philosophies.<br />
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I need Greek weaving words. These are not common words, and in English they are not common knowledge and may not be found in a dictionary and are not standardised either. The Americans and brits used different terms for the same thing sometimes, and older british weavers will use different terms from younger british weavers.<br />
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The main words I need are<br />
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Warp<br />
Weft<br />
Shed<br />
Beater<br />
Lay (shuttle race<br />
Fell<br />
Shuttle<br />
Reed<br />
Shaft (heald in old fashioned english, funnily enough)<br />
Heddle<br />
Tension (maybe a different word if attached to weaving than otherwise)<br />
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It's funny, but having had communications with scandinavian weavers (you know who you are, you lovely people) there's been no problems in this regard because most of our weaving words are borrowed from them and in any case our languages are closely related.<br />
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But anyhow, if I want to make some part of my living as a loom handyman and/or weaving teacher I'm gonna need these words. If anyone can help me, I shall be in your debt and if you happen to reside in Athens I shall be more than happy to help you in any way I can as recompense. I am proficient in most aspects of handweaving, including several different warping methods. I am also roughly good with tools and have experience of modifying looms. I can tie up a counter-balance, a counter-marche. I have repaired mechanical dobbies and thouroughly understand their mechanical operation and design principles. I can tablet weave and know some braiding. I also have a basic understanding of the operations of power looms, particularly the modern type of rapier loom and am good with the kinds of software that are common in their operation.<br />
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If you can help me with the language, or know someone that does, let me know in the comments</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-16189477905540118302015-11-06T00:15:00.000+00:002015-11-06T00:15:19.592+00:00New Loom > Old loom<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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This is my old tablet weaving loom. I guess calling it a loom is a bit of a stretch as it's basically a plank with a couple of bits of wood nailed to it to mount another bit of wood as a rudimentary cloth beam.</div>
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Anyhow, it served it's purpose fine and all, but I only used it the once to make some particularly intricate bands from silk. It's a bit on the bulky side, and I need more bulky crap like I need a hole in the head.</div>
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So I made a new one. I wanted to make a tablet weaving loom that was no bigger than it needed to be, that allowed one to weave a long warp, that had a spacer (helps both with combating twist and with keeping a consistent cloth width) and that most importantly could be made in pieces, shipped across the world in an A4 packet and put together without any nuts, bolts or glue.</div>
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This loom also combines the technique I've found most helpful in tablet weaving (the spreading board) with the basic technology of a handloom. One of the benefits that occured to me earlier the day of this is that if someone were to learn tablet weaving on this, without realising it they'd also be learning some of the fundamental basics of handloom weaving, making and beaming the warp, with the spreading board playing the part of a raddle.</div>
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In fact, there's really not good reason why this thing couldn't be turned into a shaft loom now I think of it. It just needs an add-on for that. Or for inkle weaving, or rigid heddle weaving, even jacquard weaving (now that would be an EXPENSIVE upgrade ;-).</div>
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But hey, the intricate patterns you can make with this setup are practically infinite anyway, so you don't really need to bother with anything else.</div>
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So this is the loom. It's made entirely out of 6mm laser-cut plyboard. It all just slots together. I've had this idea in my head for quite a while, now I've finally managed to extract it thanks to the tools at Dundee Makerspace, specifically the lasercutter. This is a bit of a rough draft like, There's a few things I'd change.</div>
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Firstly, I didn't really think through the ratchet and pawl thing properly. By the time I'd drafted all the parts it occured to me I hadn't considered where to mount or how to attach the pawl. I suspect I'll have to cut a hole for it into the main board and attach it with a narrow nail or something like that.</div>
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Also, I allowed the ratchet teeth to come to a sharp point, which means that some of the teeth have been cracking at the end as I'm using nails as pawls right now. </div>
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The beams turn pretty well, considering they're not actually round. </div>
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I really should have put a raised lip at the edges of the warp beam on the inside of the mount in order to bracket in the warp. If a person had a very long warp that would be an issue.</div>
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The spacer at the back is going to need something on the top to prevent the prongs from breaking. It only has 12 spacers just now, but if it had more it would get exceedingly fragile. It's also the part that takes longest to cut so it's an issue. It may make more sense to cut it from acrylic instead. It may actually make sense to cut the entire thing from acrylic, I just have to make sure I can get an appropriately tight fit.</div>
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If i did make it from acrylic it could be all sorts of funky colours.</div>
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The bit at the front is completely over-engineered and I don't think needs those wee slots at all.</div>
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The middle joining bits need to be longer and lower. The board bends slightly under tension and when you've advanced about a third of the way up the board, the joiners get in the way of your hands somewhat.</div>
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It would be helpful to be able to get the cards actually resting on the board if one wanted in order that 2-hole patterns could be made. I know you could just stick a wee book there, but that's not the point.</div>
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Also, what it really needs is a way of making the warp on the loom. I jury-rigged a rough solution but it's not acceptable in the long run. I think a couple of arms with warping posts sticking out that slot onto the sides would be nice. They could be stabilized above and below in order that they don't bend out of shape.</div>
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I kind of want to manufacture and sell these. Do you think I should do kickstarter or something?</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-41926270373518263792015-08-20T01:26:00.002+01:002015-08-20T01:26:59.219+01:00We're in Dundee now<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Oioi<br />
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Still not been posting much to the old blog recently. Things have been a bit busy. Been visiting my brother in Greece, and so much moving.<br />
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So, yeah, life's been a bit hectic eh.<br />
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So, I was staying in Galashiels and working at the uni as a technical assistant, repairing and maintaining the looms and running the power loom.<br />
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First off, at the end of last summer, I moved my tools into a farm outbuilding at a pal's place in Earlston, about a 20 minute drive away from my house. I got a little bit done there, but not that much in the grand scale of things. Then in April I decided to rent a garage unit in the same town and moved my tools there. I then found a cast-iron dobby head online and decided to buy it and get the floor loom back from up north.<br />
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The funny thing about this was that the dobby head was in the deep-south of England, which required two days of driving and added about £150 onto the (very reasonable) price of the thing. The thing came with a compressor. An absolutely ridiculous compressor, about the size of a decent-sized pig and about as heavy. At least it was on wheels. My poor wee car.<br />
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The loom itself was stored in an old church near my folks house in the northestness of Scotland, which geography buffs among you will recognise as being at the opposite end of this fragile union of ours from the South of England. So I went up there on the train a day after coming back from the south to load the loom into my father's trailer, he then drove me and it back down here to Galashiels (which is close enough to being right in the middle of the country, lengthwise).<br />
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Another thing, I hate driving in the south, it's horrible, especially around London. I mean, give a boy a break, I'm not used to the road man, I'm trying to get across this dual carriageway and who knows what lane I'm supposed to be in? If I make a mistake I end up 20 miles in the wrong direction at 10pm at night in heavy traffic. So take your hand off the hooter would you?<br />
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So, that's the loom in the borders. In the meantime, we've made the decision to move to Dundee. We'll be closer to family and we'll be in a city and I was starting to tire of the repetitive nature of my job, it was making me start to get tired of weaving in general, and we can't have that can we? So, away we go, planning our new life.<br />
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After about 2 months of flat-hunting we finally find a place and after a nerve-wracking week of waiting for forms to get processed we finally put the first month's rent down and secure the place, at which point my other half goes up to stay at her sister's place and take up her new job, she being a little more organised in the career department than I.<br />
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I'm sure I'm not supposed to end a sentence with the word "I". I don't care. Not I.<br />
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Such an individualist, me.<br />
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Anyhoo, I set to work over the following two weeks dismantling the flat, feeling something like I'm living in a particularly disorganised squat somewhere in London, albeit without the worry about getting raided by police, bailiffs or yardies.<br />
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That done, it's time for another joyful driving experience, my first time driving a van. And not just a wee transit or that, oh no, a merc sprinter. Biggest vehicle I'm allowed to drive.<br />
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Scary</div>
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I normally drive a Hyundai Getz, which pistonheads will categorize as "little".<br />
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So, I planned to get everything done in two days. What a ridiculous idea that was. I had 2 extra bodies at both ends and I still only managed to do the house over those two days. And we were all completely exhausted, none of us being accustomed to hard physical labour.<br />
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Did I mention we moved from a council flat to an unfurnished flat? Both on the 3rd floor. Of course, the new flat is a tenement so it's extra tall. Hurrah for Victorian architecture! The thing about council flats generally is that they're absolutely bare when you move in, no cooker, washing machine, nothing. So we had literally everything. I never want to lift a washing machine up 3 flights of narrow stairs again.<br />
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So, I had a day to lie about on my back panting and figure out what to do about the workshop (and the few bits and bobs left in the flat).<br />
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So I hired another van, and drove back down. This time on my own, without help at either end, cause my helpers were now working and probably sick of the sight of me and my huge pile of crap anyway.<br />
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Loaded the loom and other crap up, drove back up, slept, got up at 7 (had to get the van back for 11) and unloaded the loom at <a href="https://www.dundeemakerspace.co.uk/" target="_blank">Dundee Makerspace</a> which is to be it's new home. Got the van back to the depot with 30 minutes to spare and not a scratch and then went home and lay down for about two days.<br />
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Anyway<br />
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What's to say about Dundee?</div>
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Excellent town this, that's what. I thoroughly like it. Especially when I'm not humping crap about on my shoulders. The flat is lovely, there's a nice park just up the road and a Lidl with a brilliant bakery section just round the corner. My loom is in a very nice place with a lot of techie-creative types about and they're all very curious and interested about it, which is very nice. Trying to explain it to them makes me realize how far from the basics my understanding of this technology has come, as I can't figure out how to explain the machine in basic terms to people that aren't already familiar with the craft. Especially as my teaching method so far has been "spend two years doing what you're told on this machine and then I'll explain complicated things to you", which works fine at university, but not so fine everywhere else in the world</div>
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Anyway, this town is pure jumping like, it's a hidden gem so it is. Scottish people traditionally have a pretty poor attitude to Dundee in general, but it's completely unsupported by my experience. It's full of creation and ideas and music and stuff. Also, it's really quite a little city so I reckon it's probably pretty easy to get to know everyone important in your field here in a reasonably short period of time.<br />
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I've already met a good number of really sound and solid people and expect to meet more in the months to come. I am pretty optimistic about things working out here.<br />
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So that's that. The work's been worth it already.<br />
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But there's no way I'm doing it again in any hurry at all. My shoulder is still killing me</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-8522287823673285352015-02-23T22:55:00.001+00:002015-02-23T22:55:53.111+00:00The first really proper thing I've woven since graduation<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Woop!</div>
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So, this is largely Roslyn's idea. She had the idea of doing a kind of stepped-backwards grade in blocks on a dogtooth weave. As it goes, I misunderstood her and when she said dogstooth I heard herringbone, which is kinda odd, but it's still a twill I guess, so it works.</div>
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Anyhow, we talked over it all night. I say all night, I mean till 1am. We didn't literally stay up all night mucking about with pointpaper and coloured pens. That would be obsessive to the point of compulsion. We might like weaving, but not to the point you'd have to call the men in white coats.</div>
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So, anyway, this is going to be a sampler scarf. Now I made a mistake here when I was making the warp. One of the blocks is 4 ends too wide. I wove all this then Ros said "is that bit a bit bigger"? So I took the measure and it was, then I counted the ends and it had 32 instead of 28. So that's annoying. Now, this yarn is expensive stuff so I'm going to actually unpick the weft, untie the starting knots on the left hand side and resley leaving those four ends hanging. </div>
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I should add I got the yarn from <a href="http://www.weaversbazaar.com/" target="_blank">Weavers Bazaar</a> who have an amazing range of wool yarns in various counts as well as warp cottons and some nettle kind of arty yarns. Now, the problem with having such a huge range of colours (really, just so many, if you're in the UK do go and have a look) is that there's just too much choice. What we did was we bought a shade card from them which has all their yarns in stock. But we were still a little stuck, so what we ended up doing was buying some collection packs. This is from a pink and purple collection pack. As we're largely designing with grading colours this is a really cool way for us to buy yarn. Especially as a designer, it's very useful to get a decent range of colours in small quantities.</div>
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The only gripe I have is the price, but that's just the way things go when buying from this kind of online shop. I certainly think we'll keep using them for yarn for our designing, but when we go into manufacturing mode I think we'll have to find a bulk supplier for kilogram quantities. The bulk suppliers don't generally have as much range, but I guess the thing to do is find a company with the a range that roughly fits what you're using and go with that I suppose. That'll be a challenge when it comes, but one thing at a time for the moment.</div>
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So, we'll try a bunch of different wefts on this scarf, after I fix my mistake here. That's what we're taught in college, but we also want to actually have a scarf at the end of the day so we'll no be cutting it up and mounting it or anything like that. We also want to do these scarves in different colourways, like maybe 3 or so, so we're also trying to find wefts that'll fit into all 3 colourways so the scarves can be woven side by side on the big loom, when it eventually arrives</div>
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Anyhow, that's enough for the night. Do you like my little divider lines? That's me being all professional and that. Good, eh?</div>
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Also, I dinnae ken if you all know, but I kinda have a youtube channel, not sure if I mentioned it here before. Mostly videos of tablet weaving, with explaining and stuff. And captions for the deaf and those who can't understand what I'm saying because I don't know how to talk for video well.</div>
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Check it out, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOdoXrk8ZujszzqH6LBEVIg" target="_blank">over here</a></div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-5635261112692482882014-12-16T09:38:00.000+00:002014-12-16T09:38:28.041+00:00All ends accounted for.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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You can't easily know how happy this picture makes me.</div>
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So I'll try to explain.</div>
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First off, what's happening? Well, when I tied the new warp on to this loom the other month, the knotting machine found a few instances where the ends in the crosses for the old and new beam didn't match up. So, doing what I've seen done before, I broke them out, knowing I could always run some new ends in from cones. </div>
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Now though, I've managed to completely sort out the warp and managed to put every end in it's place. I checked each row of hooks individually and tied new warp ends in. Where possible, from threads hanging off the back, of which there were a few on the left hand side there. Also, on the right where the threads go up, I ran 4 cones up, around the beam and into the heddles and reed. </div>
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When I finally finished, I realised I had 4 free ends on the left hand side, in exactly the right colours, so I took a stick with a hook on either end, ran them down, along, and back up onto the loom.</div>
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For context, you should know that I've been trying to get all threads accounted for on this loom for over a year without success.</div>
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When I came to this loom, the selvedge drums were unloaded. They instead had rough cotton selvedge warps sitting on the floor underneath the loom and running up and around the unloaded drums. Naturally, consistent tension on the false selvedges (this is a rapier loom) was something that was impossible to maintain. Plus the selvedge cones gathered stoor and get really dirty, and made it very difficult to clean up around the bottom of the loom.</div>
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Also, for so long, I had loads of ends hanging off the back on the left hand side and other ends in the middle whose place I couldn't find. All this was exacerbated by a warp of viscose that refused to weave as much as a metre without bursting out at least 5 ends. I spent more time repairing ends than the loom spent weaving, it was truly infuriating. The warp has now been changed to 2/20's cotton, basically the same weight of yarn, but cotton is a much more agreeable yarn than the viscose we have in stock here. Now, the Viscose is fine for handweaving and knitting, but when you put it in a power loom and run it through a cross, it's just a nightmare, as it's so brittle and inflexible in comparison to cotton that it just breaks all the time. Also, it really kicks off a lot of stoor, so much so that last year I was weaving with a dust mask. I don't have that problem anymore. Used to be there'd be an inch of stoor sitting on the loom at the end of half a day's weaving, now I barely need to worry about that at all. Which is nice, as the springs underneath the heddle frame have to be cleaned of stoor when they get clogged up, and that's a real pain.</div>
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So now, I have new selvedge drums (the selvedge was also breaking a lot, but that was due to a slight misadjustment on the right hand selvedge picker, rather than anything to do with the yarn), I have a nice new warp yarn and there isn't a single yarn that isn't going somewhere useful. There's no cones on the floor, or trailing ends. Every heddle that should, has an end in it and I'm pretty damn sure there's nothing wrong with the sley, but I'd have to check to be sure. It's really difficult to tell from a cursory inspection. </div>
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Anyhow, got my last metre of the year to weave on this thing today, so I'm gonna do that and then wind the cones for the next warp. We get our warp made outside and they require 50 cones of each colour to make the warp with. So I'd best get to it.</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-46494989294237113682014-12-03T22:09:00.001+00:002014-12-03T22:29:45.257+00:00Folding loom part 2<p dir="ltr">It's taken me a little while to get round to this. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Finally though, I have the space and, in the form of the remains of a large pile if shafts we got shot of from work over the summer, the materials. Lots of pieces of wood of uniform dimensions. Nice strong stuff too, tasty. Also, the drop saw makes short work of cutting the stuff down. </p>
<p dir="ltr">I drew up some plans the other night, and built the frame and Castle today. </p>
<p dir="ltr">The castle has been built in such a way that I expect to be able to be able to swap different shedding systems in and out. </p>
<p dir="ltr">The castle is probably a little tall just now, but I thought better bigger than smaller. </p>
<p dir="ltr">The first shedding mechanism I'll install will be counterbalance, then maybe a countermarche and perhaps eventually a jack mechanism, though I'll need a router to do that, so it may have to wait for some time. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Also, there are lessons to be learned in the process. Even in the building of the frame. But certainly in the building of the shedding mechanisms. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Anyhow, two pictures of it as it is, in folded and open conditions. I also need to dig out a track for the locking arms to travel on. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Once this is all done and tested, i'll have learned enough to try again with bought wood. </p>
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<p dir="ltr">I'm also going to try different samples with differing tension, to see if I can increase the prominence of the warp floats. </p>
<p dir="ltr">A part of me is wondering whether this is a useful exercise as I plan to weave a proper quantity on the big floor loom in the new year and the characteristics of the loom are very different. </p>
<p dir="ltr">For starters, the shed us a good deal deeper, which I'm sure has some kind of effect on the cloth, but the tension is also a good bit different as well. Also, if I succeed in putting a tension brake on it, then I shall have more consistent tension control, which ought to help. </p>
<p dir="ltr">I'm currently running on the theory that a lower warp tension will cause greater take up in the warp and increase the prominence of warp floats in a 3/1 twill, also that a heavier beat will help too. </p>
<p dir="ltr">These are things that I can't really control on the table loom. So, like I say, I'm not convinced that these samples will truly reflect what the big loom will churn out. I've got to do something in the meantime though and it'll at least give me a rough idea. So there's that. </p>
<p dir="ltr">The coloured samples are from the last warp and are 2/20's cotton set at 42, 56 and 70 epi </p>
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This arrived today from Devere Yarns. 1.5 Kilos of 2/20's combed cotton and 1.5 Kilos of 2/40's.</div>
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Well packaged, each cone of 250g labelled properly and arrived in good time.</div>
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This is my first warp in 2/40's cotton of 396 ends. I'm going to make samples with this to determine the correct sett I need to make reasonable denim. After that, a larger warp with 4 solid colours, trying different twill variations and wefts.</div>
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In other news, I shall soon be getting my big counterbalance loom down from up north, now that I've got somewhere to put it. Then I can get some serious weaving done. It'll be awesome.</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-29598133943776070862014-11-06T09:19:00.001+00:002014-11-06T09:19:33.848+00:00Celtic knotwork in wood.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Something I did yesterday. The car is still in the workshop, but I expect it to be out soon. Then I can start properly making things. First in line is a couple of tapestry frames. After that I'll make a counterbalance rug loom on two shafts. But I'll make the castle big enough that it could fit 16, in preperation for the day when I get round to building a dobby box.</div>
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For now, there's this. I'll paint it and the backing up in contrasting colours and put it on the wall. I'll probably make more, but have to work on my knotwork design skills.</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-58012971266846751752014-10-19T22:25:00.000+01:002014-10-19T22:25:06.804+01:00New workshop and rigid heddle loom<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well, we had a brief discussion the other week/month (time flies) about making tablet weaving accessories.<br />
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So, last month I bought a scrollsaw and a pillar drill. And since then I have been getting a workshop space ready at a garage on a friend's farm. There's been a lot of work, and it still isn't quite ready yet. I'll have a lot more space when the car is out of the way. There's a long workbench for my woodworking tools and the desk where they're currently at will have a cheapo laptop and some of my 'leccy tools and projects, I also intend to build a very simple, but biggish, rug-weaving loom which I intend to have set up in such a way that I can fold it up against the wall when it's not in use if i need to. Thinking of maybe having the warp going up and over a rail at the top and weighted down, with the back beam of the loom sort of attached to rails on the wall. Difficult to describe, I have a picture in my head.<br />
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Anyway, I moved my tools in today and made a very simple and rough rigid-heddle loom for a friend.<br />
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A very simple counterbalance set up for now anyway, probably with an underslung beater.<br />
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Desk with tools on. Plyboard marked out and ready to cut.</div>
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I should have taken more pics while I was in the process but I was kind of in the zone. This is a detail of a ratchet and pawl, 5 minutes to cut out on the scrollsaw.</div>
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Finished (well, sort of) loom. the long stick in the front is the cloth beam.</div>
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So, moved in today and made a wee rigid heddle loom. Just add heddle.</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-75876492001182628242014-07-28T16:35:00.001+01:002014-07-28T16:35:06.357+01:00Some designs for Tablet Weaving accessories<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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This is the kind of thing I get up to when I'm bored and the loom isn't cooperating.</div>
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These are drawings for Tablet weaving card. From left to right, 6 3-sided cards arranged radially, one 6 sided card, which I haven't figured out the best way to arrange yet, and an array of 4-sided card. Also, a comb and a shuttle.<br />
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Everything but the shuttle can be easily made in plastic by laser or waterjet cutting. The shuttle may be a little trickier as I would like the beating edge to have a gentle slope leading to a nice curved blade edge for good beating.<br />
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The warp can be tied into the comb with string on top, I see no need to make a hinged attachment to go on top.<br />
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I may make other shuttle shapes tonight, and rethink the comb.<br />
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I am undecided about what material to get these things made in. I reckon the cards should be as thin as reasonably possible, 1mm acrylic perhaps. They will be breakable, but these things tend to be. In my experience the thinner a weaving card the better for the turning, especially when not mounted on a loom or board.<br />
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Annoyingly, I made the shuttle 190mm long instead of 1900mm as I intended. And it was a very pernickety part to make.<br />
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I've found a number of manufacturers who specialise in laser and waterjet cutting in the UK. I am going to get some samples of square cards made, if I find the finish and material acceptable then I shall have a larger number made of all three types of cards. But mostly the square ones.<br />
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Thje square cards are 7cm square and I welcome any expressions of interest in this product, it would be cool if I had a box of several hundred of these and just got a wee trickle of ebay earnings coming in now and then.</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-44204120619456544792014-07-25T14:20:00.002+01:002014-07-25T14:20:34.358+01:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Found this video online. Just randomly. Check out the way she swaps the cards around, about 30 seconds into the video. Can't believe I never thought of that. Don't know what language this is. Also, I love those cards.</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-34611073389792387692014-07-05T16:53:00.000+01:002014-07-05T16:53:29.213+01:00Think I might start using this blog again<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I felt that when I started working that my journey was pretty much done.<br />
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But far from it, who was I kidding?<br />
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Think I was being a bit daft. To be fair, the original purpose of the blog was to chronicle my getting-to and getting-through college, and that's done now. But it'd be silly to think it really ends there.<br />
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A lot of good has been built up here, I've been coming to realise over the last year, in the friends I've made on the comment sections and the things I've learned from the other weavers, sometimes seeing other people taking on similar paths to my own. It's all good.<br />
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So why waste it? I may work in education for the time being, but why should I limit myself to one job when there's so much more to do? I realised this truth recently when I got an email from youtube telling me that one of my videos, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGaXrxL_8o4" target="_blank">Tablet Weaving Lesson 1</a>, had gained 10 000 views, which was frankly surprising. To be fair, it's the first video I put any serious effort into in terms of production values (I had my partner hold the camera, rather then simply tying the camera to a chair or something) but the number of views is still surprising. I suspect it was picked up by some other high-traffic crafty site or mentioned on a reenactors forum or something like that.<br />
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Also, weirdly enough, and possibly largely driven by that video, traffic for this site has, with normal peaks and troughs, actually climbed somewhat in the last year of complete and utter inactivity on my part. Weird.<br />
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Anyway, that's that, I'm back. Again. Whoop!<br />
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I'm not doing as much weaving these days as I'd like, for myself that is. But I am learning a huge amount about industrial weaving on power looms, which is extremely useful stuff and will no doubt continue to be useful in the future.<br />
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I am still trying to figure out how to become self-employed as a weaver, and in months to come I may share some of my ideas. Others I may keep to myself until they're ready to roll.<br />
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In the long run I think education is going to be a big thing for me. Something I've come to realise is there's a lot of people out there that want to learn how to weave in a social environment. So setting up a series of workshops in the Highlands would probably be a good idea. I feel like I have enough experience teaching basic handweaving now that I can approach that confidently.<br />
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At the moment, I can teach Handweaving on all types of handlooms including dobbies both mechanical and electronic. I can teach interchanging double cloth design, drafting and construction. I can teach yarn setting theory, basic design methodologies for translating concept into colourways and onto cloth. I can teach basic tablet weaving, double-faced patterning and the backstrap method of weaving.<br />
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Running on from that, there's a number of advanced weaving techniques that I'd like to develop, both for my own benefit and in order that I can teach them.<br />
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Off the top of my head, there's Leno. I can use leno for edge-bindings, but that's about it. I'd like to learn more.<br />
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There's terry towelling. That looks like an interesting technique that requires careful control of warp tension on the pile beam and particular use of a light versus heavy beat. It's acheived in industry by a modified batten that allows the reed to slip backwards on the light beats. Very interesting.<br />
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I'm interested in finding out how many layers one can practically weave on a rising-shed shaft loom before everything just gets silly and the shed refuses to open. I'm just curious, as a platonically perfect 24 shaft loom could theoretically weave a 12 layer cloth. If that cloth was woven with one weft going through all layers one after the other, it seems to me that it would be possible to weave a cloth 382" (nearly 32') wide. It would be amusing to find out how close to that I can get. Probably by setting up a straight draft on 24 shafts and setting it in the reed for treble cloth (I know I can do double). Then weaving a wee bit and setting it down again.<br />
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I'd like to figure out a better way of explaining to students how to create double layered cloths with extra wefts. Some people are naturally good at mathy stuff like that, and grasp it easily. Some people aren't, and I need to find a more natural way to describe it for those people, because they are most people.<br />
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I need to get better at stake-warping wide cloths to avoid the slide-at-one-side thing. In particular I need to get better at beaming a long warp through a raddle.<br />
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I would dearly love to be able to make double cut-pile cloth. This involves a whole post in it's own right as well as some very serious loom adaptations (two different sheds, two different sets of shafts on two different layers, two cloth beams pulling on at exactly the same rate and a cutter to seperate the cloth as it's wound on). I suspect this may never happen.<br />
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That's just off the top of my head. Do you good people have any techniques you'd love to learn in a limitless world of perfect freedom?</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-63237530821543100112013-09-25T20:50:00.001+01:002013-09-25T20:50:54.910+01:00I got a job<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I'm the new weave technician at the college now.<br />
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How utterly odd, who would have thought things would turn out this way 4 years ago when i started studying here.<br />
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I am in charge of teaching students how to weave, weaving jacquard fabrics and eventually getting the hattersley working.<br />
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It is part time so I can create my own collections in my spare time, and begin some serious progress on the lifting box<br />
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From now on I shall publish videos on youtube and articles and so on on my own webspace www.humbleweaver.co.uk<br />
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I shall at some point begin selling plastic tablet weaving supplies, don't hold your breath for that though. If you don't find out one way or the other then my advertising strategy shall be seen to be rubbish.<br />
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I continue to have a really scarce involvement in weavolution, but I'm mainly a youtuber these days.<br />
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I've enjoyed my journey blogging here and all the lovely people I've met. I started this blog to document my journey in learning how to weave. Now I am a weaving instructor employed at the university and shall be producing my own collections on an annual basis. I think my journey has come to it's natural conclusion, and with it my journey as a blogger, in this particular format<br />
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Thank you all, and I shall see you on the interwebs or upon the face of the earth, at one event or another.<br />
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The blog shall remain here until google eventually crashes and brings western civilisation crashing down with it. I shall continue to answer comments for as long as gmail keeps running. Feel free to get in touch with me<br />
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Cheers<br />
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Andrew Kieran</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-68917841863477817872013-08-13T00:02:00.000+01:002013-08-13T00:02:17.380+01:00Transitional phase is beginning<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So I sold the Dryad loom yesterday. It is gone out the door and shall not return. I also took back all the yarn I'm not absolutely certain I want back to the college because most of it came from there anyway. I retain a small amount of wool and silk and stainless steel yarn too.<br />
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This is all to say things are changing. We've been doing a lot of clearing out over here, I've sold many surplus books on amazon, only retaining the fiction and those which are definitely useful. Beginners weaving books are all sold but all the tablet weaving and historical clothing books have been retained.<br />
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In time I shall be moving my online weavey presence over to www.humbleweaver.co.uk which shall predominantly be a place where I post notes on my progress in designing a jack loom. It's useful as I can easily give collaborators access to the page with which they can also post or edit. I'm not sure exactly how i'll be using this page in the future, but I suspect that it'll be tapering off.<br />
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I have work now, at House of Cheviot in Hawick, a manufacturer of fine country socks and kilt hose which promises to take up most of my time for the forseeable future. So it looks like I won't be making my living as a weaver after all, which is strange and ironic, but perhaps all for the best as I can continue to simply "Weave 4 Fun".<br />
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In time I expect to be able to export the contents of thi blog as an XML file or some such thing and send them to the new site to be hosted over there outside of blogger, but I haven't figured that out yet.<br />
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As far as weaving goes the main focus of my time will be on tablet weaving and on designing the jack loom. The jack loom if successful will be followed by a small jacquard lifter for ribbon weaving.<br />
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So that's that for now. I will be attending a living history fair dressed up as a 13th century cloth merchant this coming weekend, which should be fun.<br />
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I guess that's all for now, at some point the new site will be looking better. When I have a bit of time to spend on it I expect. For now it's just a postboard. See y'all around. I might be tapering off blogger, but I'm not going anywhere. I can still be found lurking on WeaveTech and weavolution so nae worries :-)</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-3808809953402362052013-07-31T00:18:00.001+01:002013-07-31T00:18:11.174+01:00test - please ignore<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
test test test</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-78191669830574081642013-07-12T15:15:00.003+01:002013-07-12T15:15:57.598+01:00Hochdorf Two Hole Tablet Weaving<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So, I saw a picture of a Hochdorf band woven by a member of the Historic Tablet Weaving group on Facebook. It looks like you can get more detailed patterning with this technique and you also get a nice sort of pebbled effect in the background weave.</div>
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Anyway, so I googled it and found this webpage <a href="http://thewarpfactor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/hochdorf.html" target="_blank">The Warp Factor</a>, with a nice explanation of how to weave this band and a good diagram to go with it that tells you exactly when and where to turn the cards. Nice stuff.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAjjVbQ3jWxCLJ56ZZ2iLOQWzdYOVNywgyEt4uqnPEKqJ5DpqaM-XLbCq6DXWgCpvjntZxp-LYHVBydDynb-zBEzeIHB3vB3BUlWNPy5BE6TiuqaHiJ07tsGYI363-EgrkVTZ_2IU9ucc9/s1600/IMAG1610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAjjVbQ3jWxCLJ56ZZ2iLOQWzdYOVNywgyEt4uqnPEKqJ5DpqaM-XLbCq6DXWgCpvjntZxp-LYHVBydDynb-zBEzeIHB3vB3BUlWNPy5BE6TiuqaHiJ07tsGYI363-EgrkVTZ_2IU9ucc9/s320/IMAG1610.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>
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This is my second attempt at Hochdorf patterning. First was in acrylic to work out the technique and the use of the board. Second in 2/60's silk, to make something extra special nice.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHr2G6NzqhDW3GnCte7LRu8G0bO5xftdItR_5sQUPvvairSNvxUj4lfC33Gz1qiWK23CCTkKS5DrVyLUR4yqEmvcLCONRB0fNp7SA0vudYazrEsuNjLPTDSyCPz_PfIgK2CvuiR7FfL1IN/s1600/IMAG1611.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHr2G6NzqhDW3GnCte7LRu8G0bO5xftdItR_5sQUPvvairSNvxUj4lfC33Gz1qiWK23CCTkKS5DrVyLUR4yqEmvcLCONRB0fNp7SA0vudYazrEsuNjLPTDSyCPz_PfIgK2CvuiR7FfL1IN/s320/IMAG1611.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>
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This is my new weaving board. It's a bit scrappy but it does the job. there's a few wee annoying problems with it, but the next one will be better.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYErtxpAyPPV92qF9HUcgRhzS8ww6cx-BnhThd9ihYRt4X8neE3FbGAakI08ktb37wwUSs3Lm3t3xqy6HjqFVj7kUAcoVyvqUQ27zDGNKTBhTL4O_B70gdVVIsM6_j207J7EmY1yxj84Ad/s1600/IMAG1612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYErtxpAyPPV92qF9HUcgRhzS8ww6cx-BnhThd9ihYRt4X8neE3FbGAakI08ktb37wwUSs3Lm3t3xqy6HjqFVj7kUAcoVyvqUQ27zDGNKTBhTL4O_B70gdVVIsM6_j207J7EmY1yxj84Ad/s320/IMAG1612.jpg" width="241" /></a></div>
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This is how tension is maintained on the band, with a nice even consistency. The main part of the band is held as one with a bag full of weights. The selvedge tablets however are twining continuously in the same direction, so they need to be weighted individually in order to remove the twist</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzi2-G5Qw6aQhTHQ7t5anxVXOksBLjPpdRDAikV6dJWUS4raRoTKETlC8EYnLyIuNhNJPeiL_c8ZZtqE5Xt4NqJYOqNFwycjI7Ze_Pl92HbT3CVLBlN-FVZSv754AMRsO9-gueiVkS9Lp/s1600/15p_20130503_unlock_uncheck_layout0.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzi2-G5Qw6aQhTHQ7t5anxVXOksBLjPpdRDAikV6dJWUS4raRoTKETlC8EYnLyIuNhNJPeiL_c8ZZtqE5Xt4NqJYOqNFwycjI7Ze_Pl92HbT3CVLBlN-FVZSv754AMRsO9-gueiVkS9Lp/s320/15p_20130503_unlock_uncheck_layout0.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
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To understand the threading diagram you need to know which hole is which on the cards. You can see the woven band on the right there, which will of course be on your side of the cards.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7YBTJpUxvA-bO7JUSNeUFfF54dk5gtRkAdfdn3urkRyjzfb3Skw9rQlqup22Fkjy5DG6oA2kay5dhpySd5mOv4O7bzUoUYzEWYLA7TKoV-ra42-PeNml_hKxnMxcxjTukASxMEvyM70bc/s1600/16p_20130515_unlock_uncheck_layout0.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7YBTJpUxvA-bO7JUSNeUFfF54dk5gtRkAdfdn3urkRyjzfb3Skw9rQlqup22Fkjy5DG6oA2kay5dhpySd5mOv4O7bzUoUYzEWYLA7TKoV-ra42-PeNml_hKxnMxcxjTukASxMEvyM70bc/s320/16p_20130515_unlock_uncheck_layout0.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
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This explains what I mean by S and Z card direction. As you see, S and Z both have a diagonal component, the thread follows in the direction of that component.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPIPpxB_5f6iycEzAC5qOkl7drl9R7qS_GfzJNWFAS54xpnVCW8-gzyKt97XR9vuHOpqRkQbC23hYxPhIhniP4ywCyyVcBrddXBB80w0kqIWwVKzkSv79QJXe9MbFWnSsVva62c_zYDwE/s1600/17p_20130515_unlock_uncheck_layout0.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPIPpxB_5f6iycEzAC5qOkl7drl9R7qS_GfzJNWFAS54xpnVCW8-gzyKt97XR9vuHOpqRkQbC23hYxPhIhniP4ywCyyVcBrddXBB80w0kqIWwVKzkSv79QJXe9MbFWnSsVva62c_zYDwE/s320/17p_20130515_unlock_uncheck_layout0.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>
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Of course, it's not for nothing the S and Z threading direction are called that, as there is an already established method of indicating the direction of the twist in a yarn, as you can see.</div>
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So this is the full threading diagram for this band. I have an extra selvedge card on each side of course, as this is very fine stuff. As you can see there are only two holes threaded in each card, and the cards are threaded in a manner whereby two cards are threaded together as S and the next two are threaded together as Z. These cards are also then turned together and you'll see that when you take them together one is threaded in holes A and C and the other in B and D. This means that together they make the equivalent of 1 card threaded ABCD.</div>
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So, in order to weave, you turn two quarter turns for each pattern step. From this position if you turn forward you will get white, and if you turn backwards you will get Blue. Following this you'll see that The positions of the threads in the cards has reversed, so if you were now to turn forward you would get blue, and if backwards white.</div>
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So, if you want to weave continuously white from this position you do two quarter turns forward, then two quarter turns backwards.</div>
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This is the basic threading draft for the pattern, along with an explanation of the terms used. The actual turning diagram is on the page I linked to. The only difference is that I believe she threaded her cards the other way from how I did it, so if you're using my threading diagram and her turning diagram, for F read B and vice versa.</div>
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You can probably follow the turning diagram exactly if you were to swap the blue and white threads around in my threading diagram.</div>
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I'd add my own turning diagram for this band but I don't yet have the means so you can get the turning diagram at <a href="http://thewarpfactor.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/hochdorf.html" target="_blank">The Warp Factor</a></div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-79976295801151869972013-06-30T20:50:00.000+01:002013-06-30T20:50:10.644+01:00New Designers 2013<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Spent the last week (or so) at New Designers in London (LaaaaahnDaaaaaahn, innit guv).<br />
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New Designers is an annual exhibition of work by graduates from colleges all over Britain.<br />
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Anyhow, it was absolutely amazing. It's generally considered rude to take pictures, but let me tell you some of the 3D design work was simply jaw dropping.<br />
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Here's some of my display anyway.<br />
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I had a few useful conversations, of which more shall be said later. The week was very useful and completely exhausting (as all trips to London inevitably are) and we're glad to be home. Now I'm off out back to cut my loom-wood down to size so I can get it into the house.</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-29288551438604424712013-06-23T16:19:00.000+01:002013-06-23T16:19:11.871+01:00Building a jack loom Part 1: Vague plans and messy diagrams<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I've been thinking about it for a while to be fair.<br />
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What I'm thinking about is an 8 shaft folding jack loom. The interesting part comes when I point out that I'm going to build an electric dobby controller into the bottom of it so it operates from one pedal and a computer program.<br />
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So far I've been thinking and thinking and I'm basically roughly copying the kind of frame you'd find in a Siever's school or Baby wolf loom. Basically it's like an X that folds up on itself with the castle in the middle. Should be able to reduce it's depth from 3 feet to about 1 for storage.<br />
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I don't think it's really that difficult to design the loom frame, aside from building the beams and making the ratchets and so on, which I may just jigsaw out of thick MDF. I have most of the wood I need asides from some panelling and I need to buy some aluminium sheet to make the shaft dividers with and also to hold the shaft bodies together with.<br />
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The rising levers will probably be made from mdf 6mm panelling, perhaps with rollers or aluminium plating on the ends to stop it from wearing.<br />
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underneath the levers there'll be about 8" of space for the wires to go down before entering the selection box, which shall be controlled by servo motors (I have them from a previous project, I also have the programming for a 16 shaft controller nearly done already and the electronics are all laid out so I'll just have to fit them into the new frame).<br />
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Then I have to figure out the best way to set up the pedal, whether front or back levered, or if there's a way I could easily create an assisted lift, or even put in a wheel there.<br />
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If I was to use a wheel then there's be less wasted mechanical energy in lifting and dropping the shafts, but it's a little complicated. Of course the thing about a rotary mechanism is it could just turn and turn and raise and lower the shafts automatically if powered by a motor or a bicycle pedal which then offers the possibility for further automation of the mechanism, though it's probably troublesome to install automatic beating and weft insertion on a 2ft wide folding jack loom.<br />
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But you never know, as long as the frame was sturdy enough I don't see a problem, assuming I can make all the mechanical parts out of MDF. I'm convinced it's possible, with enough tinkering.<br />
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Maybe I'll just start with a pedal then try adding a wheel for shedding.<br />
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Anyway, I'm going to throw up my diagrams here. As you shall see, I am not trained in the art of the technical draftsman<br />
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General side view and approximate dimensions. I may change my mind on the exact height<br />
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More detailed calculations here, trying to figure out relationships between the height of the castle, where the bolts go and the length of the folding legs<br />
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Building the depth of the castle, taking into account the wood and cladding for the shafts (which have to be square and rigid as well as smooth) and clearance and dividers (which will be made from doubled over aluminium plating)<br />
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Figuring out the total weaving width, and then from there the exact width of the frame, taking into account washers and clearance space again. One arm will have to wider than the other, I think it should be the one that carries the beater and cloth beam, as the beater needs something wider than itself to pivot from. The warp beam can afford to be a little narrower than the cloth beam. So i think anyway.<br />
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A double arm raising jack action. Perhaps unecessarily complicated, but it does look very effective.<br />
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The shed. Dictated by the size of the heddles, the maximum shed depth is 6" at the shaft.<br />
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Figuring out the height of the castle and how big the lifting zone needs to be. Everything is now in millimeteres. The lifting zone has to be the height of the shaft (heddles, plus generous clearance plus the shaft frame) plus the lifting height.<br />
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In order to reduce height and because i think it's pretty I've set it so the shafts will raise a couple inches out of the castle. I find that pleasing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlFv47B9LVY6HwR97UeoQ6UAPqoqMgqRSCgcemZnR3r4zfXwzChF6jHxtI5FlcvlzYWHNvPMkZOhILHy0HBgXeXt8hOJ3-RAPeJ_LQBwqmQb3NBST9a0hyphenhyphenHtk9TjB50LjWdoiE2LRwQpug/s1600/9p_20130503_unlock_uncheck_layout0.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlFv47B9LVY6HwR97UeoQ6UAPqoqMgqRSCgcemZnR3r4zfXwzChF6jHxtI5FlcvlzYWHNvPMkZOhILHy0HBgXeXt8hOJ3-RAPeJ_LQBwqmQb3NBST9a0hyphenhyphenHtk9TjB50LjWdoiE2LRwQpug/s320/9p_20130503_unlock_uncheck_layout0.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
The total space for the lifting mechanism (the jack action) which shall go under the shafts to push them up.<br />
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Also, a split lever jack action. Which is what I'm going with as it looks like it uses less space depth wise<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5swIwTjQDR9529_biq4Xy4Cn-0_Yx1rO75fWIXUyJjsoFPJF0dKZ6oHyvMvPljy8sF3dMn5DiocKFuTZ2WadAMra43Q8MbdcT62qGW01XwjxSOfvkTikPsl2E-ZqGKVC_3rf-hNeQpHPZ/s1600/10p_20130503_unlock_uncheck_layout0.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5swIwTjQDR9529_biq4Xy4Cn-0_Yx1rO75fWIXUyJjsoFPJF0dKZ6oHyvMvPljy8sF3dMn5DiocKFuTZ2WadAMra43Q8MbdcT62qGW01XwjxSOfvkTikPsl2E-ZqGKVC_3rf-hNeQpHPZ/s320/10p_20130503_unlock_uncheck_layout0.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div>
The split lever jack action in raised position. The action needs twice the lifting height, plus the width of the frame that holds the levers, and a little extra space for it's cords.<br />
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Then it needs a wee bit extra leeway before it enters the selection box, which I haven't designed yet.<br />
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That's the whole mechanism there. I may have made a mistake here, as I don't believe I need to leave any space between the fully extended jack action and the selection box there. I think I need the extra space between the box and the lifting pedal<br />
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In principle I see no reason why this system couldn't be simply automated with a continuously rotating wheel.</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-46510261195357412062013-06-10T15:58:00.001+01:002013-06-10T15:58:28.643+01:00Tablet Weaving Lesson #1: Backstrap weaving a simple diamond motif<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is the first in a series of video and photo tutorials showing basic to advanced tablet-weaving concepts.<br />
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These lessons shall each build on the last and hopefully take the viewer from simple diamond patterns up to more complicated double face pattern weaving with finer yarns and eventually onto the heady heights of brocading and other fancy techniques (just as soon as I learn how to do them myself).<br />
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In this first lesson we'll learn the basic weaving steps involved in weaving a diamond pattern in the backstrap style.<br />
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This lesson is meant for someone who has purchased a ready-made warp from me. The next lesson shall detail how to design and make this warp oneself.<br />
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And we begin<br />
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This is the basic pattern we are making. The woven band is tied to my waist with another strap. I am holding a small stick shuttle in my right hand which contains the weft.</div>
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In front of me are the cards, each card has 4 warp threads going through it. The gap that you can see is called the shed, this is what the weft shall pass through. Each time we turn the cards we cause the warp ends (threads in weaving are called ends if they are of the warp and picks if they are of the weft) to twist around each other, this traps the weft in place.</div>
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The following steps I demonstrate are using a practiced hand. Initially when I was learning I often turned the cards using both hands. If you find this easier then please feel free to turn the cards and insert the weft anyway you feel comfortable.</div>
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First we need to move the cards up the warp. Place your thumb on top of the warp and your pinky finger below. Place your first finger in the back shed and use your two other fingers to hold the pack steady. In this way you can keep all the cards together when you move them so none of them turn in a funny way that they're not meant to.</div>
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Now push the cards up a bit. This gives you a bit more space to get the shuttle in. It's always nicer to have a decent working space for putting the shuttle in, rather than trying to squeeze it into a small space.</div>
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Now, get one hand into the shed and use that to pull through the shuttle. I do it this way as I find that if I just push the shuttle in unguided it sometimes catches on warp threads, which isn't good.</div>
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Then pull the shuttle through to insert the weft.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Leave a small loop of weft sticking out the side. The purpose of this is to allow you to finely control the width of the band. If we were to pull the weft all the way in upon insertion then the band would tend to become narrower and narrower. This is not so much of a great issue with a chunky band like this, where you're unlikely to notice a small difference of a few millimetres in the width of the band, but when one is weaving very fine threads and making detailed work later on it becomes very important to maintain consistency. If you like you can weave a small amount to find the perfect width for your band and then use a small marked stick or a measuring tape to measure the band every now and again and make sure you are not deviating from your desired width.</span></div>
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Now, to turn the cards, place your hand upon it like so . . </div>
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. . . and roll them backwards . . . </div>
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. . . a full 45 degrees.</div>
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This is called one turn. You will notice that I have placed my hands around the cards again in such a way that all cards are held in my hand simultaneously and they all move together. If you have smaller hands or are using more cards, you may find it more useful to turn the cards with two hands or to move them in groups. It's entirely up to what is comfortable with yourself.</div>
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Now we're ready for the next pick. Get your hand in front of the cards again . . .</div>
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. . . and push the pack backwards to make space.</div>
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Again, insert the weft . . .</div>
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Now we are ready to "tuck" the previous pick of weft. Hold the tucking side of the band with one hand and pull the weft from the other side with your other, taking care not to pull too tightly. Some designs may call for you to leave a small loop on the outside for artistic effect, but generally you don't want to weft to show too much.</div>
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Now the weft has been fully tucked.</div>
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And we beat the fell. The "fell" is the point at which the woven cloth or band meets the unwoven weft. The purposed of beating the fell is to push the previous pick of weft into position and to tighten up the woven face of the band. The strength of the beating determines the tightness of the pattern. I prefer a heavy beat as it's easier to maintain consistency and it allows you to get more pattern into a smaller space.</div>
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Something to consider when doing this is the nature of the yarn you're using for your warp. If, as is likely, you're learning to tablet weave for historical purposes, then you're likely to be using wool. Wool is very catchy, and if you simply try to push the shuttle down to the fell in the manner that I demonstrate in the following video, you're likely to cause yarns to snarl on each other. In this case it may be better to take the bottom and the top of the shed and pull them apart with your hands in order to separate the top and bottom layers of warp threads before you beat down the fell. This is less likely to be an issue using silk, cotton or acrylic, or for that matter nylon, which is my favourite material for practicing new TW techniques as it's fine, strong and nice and shiny.</div>
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And there you have it anyway, your second pick is in place, you have a wee loop sticking out the side and you're now ready to turn the cards again and continue weaving</div>
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Now, to observe all these steps in motion, see the following video.</div>
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Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-74913292186193095442013-05-10T00:48:00.000+01:002013-05-31T12:16:28.306+01:00A lovely visit and an interesting challenge<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I had the priviledge this week of paying host to <a href="http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&ved=0CEwQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Flaurasloom.blogspot.com%2F&ei=QjGMUYbnNIrG0QXiooHACA&usg=AFQjCNElYJ6cPYS7XHcZe4BDVuBQ9pcl2Q&sig2=zk2Qyqx5A1TagN8tI95lXA&bvm=bv.46340616,d.d2k" target="_blank">Laura Fry</a> and <a href="http://www.bergdalaspinnhus.com/index_eng.html" target="_blank">Kerstin Froberg.</a><br />
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Sadly, they arrived the day before the bank holiday and had to leave the following afternoon so were unable to receive the tour of the <a href="http://www.tex.hw.ac.uk/index.htm" target="_blank">School of Textile And Design</a> they were hoping for.<br />
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Never mind though, as weavers are weavers and we love to talk about weaving. Over dinner and a pint or two we discussed many subjects including Vadmal, the pros and cons of AVL looms and the routes by which each of us came to weaving. It was a very nice evening and a real delight to meet other weavers with such a depth of passion and knowledge.<br />
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Why I didn't take any pictures I'll never know, I guess I was just too busy chatting away about looms and yarn and going on about how I learned to weave upside down and back to front and made myself do everything the hard way (which stands me in good stead when I have to rescue other people's warping errors).<br />
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Interestingly, I'd had it in my head the Laura was American and Kerstin was Finnish, whereas they're actually Canadian and Swedish, so that's weird. I wonder how that mix up occurred in my brainpan?<br />
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Anyhow, the next day they came to visit my house, all rammed with cloth and I showed them through all the work I've been doing for college and sold them each a quantity of cashmere, which was very nice for me as I've been pure brassic this month due to The Economy.<br />
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And Kerstin gave me a challenge, <a href="http://laurafry.com/weavev.shtml" target="_blank">to weave a V-neck shawl</a>, on a power loom, as I have been going on about power looms somewhat as I am currently enjoying the prospect of getting use of one soon. I believe it's doable, though not to the exact technique she describes, but nevertheless something similar could no doubt be done on a Jacquard shuttle loom, assuming you were happy to do the hand finishing. It's a thought. I foresee some small technical difficulties, though one could easily stop the machine after every pick to make weft adjustments and still weave quicker than by hand, especially as the bulk would be woven by automagicalness.<br />
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Anyhoo, that's only the start, we also talked about the idea of weaving a shirt in one piece without seams straight on the loom. Apparently, back in the heyday of industrial weaving, this was acheived at great length and expense by the son of an industrial mill family who tied up a jacquard loom for a whole year making a garment that came complete with pockets, frills, collars, the lot, without a single sewing stitch, and then proceeded to give it to the queen, or someone similar.<br />
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This was done either in Dunfermline or Dundee, it's something I've never heard or read about, but I must look into it. The brain-work demon at the back of my head is telling me it's totally doable with enough thought and careful planning but I suspect it wouldn't be woven quickly, and I'm sure it would need a multi-box shuttle loom, a rapier wouldn't do it.<br />
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The knitters are already making seamless clothing on machine, so I guess it's about time us weavers stepped up to the plate.<br />
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Does anyone know anything about these seamless woven garments? I don't have time to go searching just now, but I'm more than happy to idly receive links and information or even wild speculation.</div>
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3978632925950937140.post-49315160540330695562013-04-26T23:38:00.000+01:002013-04-27T14:41:11.581+01:00Almost totally off topic, hanging onto relevance by the narrowest of threads.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I've just found my new favourite author.<br />
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Cixin Liu (or is that Liu Cixin, I don't know) is an SF write from China, I have just read a free offering of his from Amazon which you can download for free as an E-book. It's a novella describing humanity's travails in escaping the death of the sun with the earth as our spaceship.<br />
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To say this this book is epic, majestic and terrifying in it's magnificient concept is a remarkable understatement. But to fail to acknowledge the hope gleaned from finding an author who is willing to conceive of humanity facing up to huge and terrible challenges with stoicism and resourcefulness would be a mistake.<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007JL6IYU/ref=cm_cr_mts_prod_img" target="_blank">The Wandering Earth</a><br />
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It's simply unlike anything I have ever read.<br />
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But what is more remarkable is that it hits the very note that I have been attempting to hit with my last warp<br />
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Can you see what I'm trying to do? It's supposed to be like a representation of the galaxy as viewed in transit at high speed, with stars stretched out and long wispy streamers of pink gas flitting by.
The other thing you'll notice about this warp is the large number of broken ends I've chosen not to fix. As we know, all things in the universe are subject to entropy, which is the tendency of ordered systems to break down into chaos. The yarn itself accelerates this process as the added fibres clung to each other causing broken ends and many weird lifts and poor shedding. As a careless god weaving my own little universe I have gleefully chosen to let the cloth do as it wishes to do, pausing only to remove broken ends from the back of the shafts. The funny thing is you really can't tell until you look closely. This mirrors the apparent simplicity if large systems when viewed from far away, but when examined up close reveal hidden depths of complexity and numerous exceptions to dearly held natural laws.
Somewhere on this warp I have darned in a single grey thread, this represents humanity sailing blindly onwards through the incomprehensible vastness of space, unaware of the dangers that may await us, lurking in the darkness to cut short the thread of our existence
Andrew Kieranhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08997798351349771733noreply@blogger.com0